Tuesday, 6 August 2013

Eleuthera & Long Island, Bahamas

We sailed from West Bay, New Providence down the Tongue of the Ocean to Fresh Water Harbour, encountered strong winds and moderate seas, making the Exuma crossing unfeasible. tried berthing in Fresh water harbour but not enough depth. Anchored behind the US Navy research station and went ashore for provisions. Rowed 2 miles to fresh water and back for provisions anchoring became untenable in the  hard ground in the lee of the breakwater, so pulled anchor, to go sailing back in the deep waters of the Tongue of the Ocean, our only way forward in the strong winds was to sail back to New Providence and go to deep waters north of Eluethera unless the winds abated. As we approached Eleuthera, winds abated and good weather returned the following day so we decided to take the shallow protected waters on the Eleuthera bight that in essence was a shortcut, and allowed us to have some time at anchor to enjoy the island, as sailing in shallow waters at night is never recomended.

We stopped in the lovely protected harbours of Hatchett Bay and Governors Harbour. By coincidence we arrived at Hatchett Bay during the August homecoming and Island holiday, so we were able to enjoy the festival onshore, as we were on a  mooring, before getting a good nights rest. Governors Harbour was a great little harbor where at anchor, we found a mooring block (when diving the beautiful clear waters to check anchor holding) so we wrapped the anchor around the mooring that gave us extra security and allowed us to explore the oldest town and former center of government of The Bahamas. We enjoyed a nice meal and a few drinks at the local Bar. From Governors Harbour we sailed to Eluethera Marina, just off Powels point after passing the shallow exit passage of Davis Channel. We stopped to take fuel at the Marina, but Marina was closed, Was going to stop over night, but insects were prevalent in the Marina. Wind had died so we motored over night and the next day through the deep waters of the Exuma sound, in the Lee of Cat Island and pass the Exumas straight for Long Island. Our objective to get to the last deep water Marina of the Far Bahamas at Clarence Bay, Long Island. Unfortunately due to strong currents in the north of Long Island, we lost an hour which meant we had to approach the harbour at twilight and in the dark, since the East end of the Island is completely surrounded by uncharted reef shallows, our only options were to keep motoring to the east, or try to enter the harbour at night. We made the entrance into the main channel of the harbour at night to see how well lit the area was and whether docking was a possibility. As t turned out, Flying fish Marina was lit and the entrance harbour was quite clear and well marked, so we were able to take a berth for the night. Unfortunately the town was closed tight since its a holiday weekend. Today however we were able to refuel, re-provision with water and soon we will explore the Island before heading out late this afternoon for the final run to Puerto Rico, a 6 day trip out to the lee of the Turk Islands and across the top of Hispaniola and across the infamous Mona Passage to Puerto Rico. Forecast looks good for some nice winds tonight and tomorrow, despite the rain, although the rain will make the trip a little cooler. Looking forward to parting on our arrival at Puerto Rico, and once more being in civilization.

In Retrospect, it was a shame to miss the Exumas, as I've heard great things but theirs always next time, and Eleuthera was well worth the visit and saved us time rounding the Island to the north and west on the Atlantic side.Freebooters deep draft does make exploration of the shallow waters of The Bahamas interesting, and anchoring is an important aspect of sailing the Bahamas, a good tender is also important, and we've become quite proficient at popping out the inflatable dinghy for rowing ashore, in true Freebooter fashion, nothing better than anchoring off and rowing ashore on a tender. Also we've met some great personages, helpful locals and had a great time. After our long journey across the Nth Atlantic, the Bahamas have been a much needed salve to Freebooter and her hardy crew.

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